How to Install a Rivet Nut by Hand (Step-by-Step)
A step-by-step rivet nut installation: mark, punch, drill to size, deburr, insert and set with a manual tool—plus the hole-size table and the mistakes that cause spin-out.
How to Install a Rivet Nut by Hand
This walkthrough assumes a manual rivet nut tool (hand rivnut gun). The sequence is identical for pneumatic or electric tools—those just automate the pull force after you trigger them. Get the prep right and the set is reliable; skip it and you get spin-out or a weak thread.
Tools and Consumables You Need
- Manual rivet nut tool with the correct mandrel for your thread size
- Drill and the correct drill bit (per the insert's datasheet)
- Centre punch and hammer
- Deburring tool or step drill
- Rivet nuts in the right size, material and grip range
- A bolt to test thread engagement after setting
- Safety glasses
Step 1 — Mark and Centre-Punch
Mark the hole position clearly and centre-punch a dimple. The punch stops the drill bit wandering; an off-centre or oversize hole makes the rivet nut sit crooked and spin.
Step 2 — Drill to the Correct Hole Size
Use the hole diameter from the insert's datasheet—the body should push in by hand pressure but not drop through freely. Typical references:
- M3: ~5.0 mm hole
- M4: ~6.0 mm hole
- M5: ~7.0 mm hole
- M6: ~9.0 mm hole
- M8: ~11.0 mm hole
- M10: ~13.0 mm hole
- M12: ~15.0 mm hole
Always confirm against the specific insert's data sheet; grip range and body style shift the exact number.
Step 3 — Deburr Both Faces
Remove the internal and external burr left by the drill. A burr rolled into the flare face scores the seal and causes leaks or weak sets. This single step prevents most failures.
Step 4 — Insert and Set
Thread the rivet nut onto the mandrel, insert it into the hole so the flange sits flush with the surface, then squeeze the handles to pull and set. If your tool has an adjustable depth stop, set it once on a scrap piece of the same thickness (see the buyer's guide for why).
Step 5 — Inspect
Visual check: flange even, body not over-crushed, thread intact. Bolt test: the mating screw should thread smoothly with no stripping. For critical joints, a torque or pull-out check confirms clamping force.
Common Mistakes That Cause Spin-Out
- Oversize hole: the shank has nothing to bite—use the datasheet diameter.
- Wrong grip range: too-thin material lets the body collapse; match grip range to panel thickness.
- No knurl on coated sheet: use a knurled or hex body to resist rotation in soft or coated metal.
- Over-crushing: calibrate the depth stop; a collapsed body strips the thread.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I install a rivet nut without the proper tool?
Only as a one-off using the bolt-and-two-nuts jam method; setting force is inconsistent and you risk over-crushing small inserts. For any volume, use a proper tool.
Why does my rivet nut spin when I tighten the bolt?
Usually an oversize hole, wrong grip range, or a smooth body on soft/coated sheet. Switch to a knurled or hex body and check the hole size.
How far should the rivet nut stick out before setting?
Follow the tool's instruction for your insert; the flange should sit flush on the surface before you pull. Over-protrusion leads to an uneven set.
Which tool do I need for stainless inserts?
Stainless needs more pull force—use pneumatic or hydraulic rather than a manual tool, especially above M8. See manual vs pneumatic.
